V10 odd issue
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V10 odd issue
Hi everyone. Ive just installed a used V10 in my panel. Great radio but one strange issue. On first switching on, and whenever switching between active and standby frequencies the headset volume level becomes inaudible. It is receiving incoming transmissions as the frequency numbers are flashing but nothing can be heard. A few presses of the Volume/Squelch selector button restores the sound level. The radio then operates perfectly fine until the next time the frequency is changed. Has anybody else encountered such an issue? Any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, and what the fix might be? Any help much appreciated.
Re: V10 odd issue
Repeated flexing of an internal PCB by hard button presses causes the soldering around the codec chip to break. I have repaired a number of them with similar issues in the past.
The repair is quite simple.
You need a hot air soldering station and a drop of flux. Any electronics repair shop that can do board level repairs to TV's, mobile phones etc should have this.
There is a small square chip on the main board (two other boards are soldered to this at right angles). It is right on one of the corners and has an equal number of connections on each side (around 10 - there are several versions with slightly different pin count put equal amounts on each side). It's on the opposite side to the flex connector going to the keypad.
Place drop of flux around the chip (it should flow easily around the chip). Now heat all sides of the chip using the hot air pencil so the solder around the chip reflows (you can see this if you have a good microscope). if you can't see that well lightly tap one of the ceramic capacitors next to the chip until it just starts to swim in the solder - then you should be fine and can withdraw the hot air.
The repair is quite simple.
You need a hot air soldering station and a drop of flux. Any electronics repair shop that can do board level repairs to TV's, mobile phones etc should have this.
There is a small square chip on the main board (two other boards are soldered to this at right angles). It is right on one of the corners and has an equal number of connections on each side (around 10 - there are several versions with slightly different pin count put equal amounts on each side). It's on the opposite side to the flex connector going to the keypad.
Place drop of flux around the chip (it should flow easily around the chip). Now heat all sides of the chip using the hot air pencil so the solder around the chip reflows (you can see this if you have a good microscope). if you can't see that well lightly tap one of the ceramic capacitors next to the chip until it just starts to swim in the solder - then you should be fine and can withdraw the hot air.