V10 odd issue
Forum rules
Please keep your posts friendly and on topic. No politics or discussions of a controversial nature not related to our favorite subject of flying and avionics. Offending posts may be removed or moderated.
Please keep your posts friendly and on topic. No politics or discussions of a controversial nature not related to our favorite subject of flying and avionics. Offending posts may be removed or moderated.
V10 odd issue
Hi everyone. Ive just installed a used V10 in my panel. Great radio but one strange issue. On first switching on, and whenever switching between active and standby frequencies the headset volume level becomes inaudible. It is receiving incoming transmissions as the frequency numbers are flashing but nothing can be heard. A few presses of the Volume/Squelch selector button restores the sound level. The radio then operates perfectly fine until the next time the frequency is changed. Has anybody else encountered such an issue? Any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem, and what the fix might be? Any help much appreciated.
Re: V10 odd issue
Repeated flexing of an internal PCB by hard button presses causes the soldering around the codec chip to break. I have repaired a number of them with similar issues in the past.
The repair is quite simple.
You need a hot air soldering station and a drop of flux. Any electronics repair shop that can do board level repairs to TV's, mobile phones etc should have this.
There is a small square chip on the main board (two other boards are soldered to this at right angles). It is right on one of the corners and has an equal number of connections on each side (around 10 - there are several versions with slightly different pin count put equal amounts on each side). It's on the opposite side to the flex connector going to the keypad.
Place drop of flux around the chip (it should flow easily around the chip). Now heat all sides of the chip using the hot air pencil so the solder around the chip reflows (you can see this if you have a good microscope). if you can't see that well lightly tap one of the ceramic capacitors next to the chip until it just starts to swim in the solder - then you should be fine and can withdraw the hot air.
The repair is quite simple.
You need a hot air soldering station and a drop of flux. Any electronics repair shop that can do board level repairs to TV's, mobile phones etc should have this.
There is a small square chip on the main board (two other boards are soldered to this at right angles). It is right on one of the corners and has an equal number of connections on each side (around 10 - there are several versions with slightly different pin count put equal amounts on each side). It's on the opposite side to the flex connector going to the keypad.
Place drop of flux around the chip (it should flow easily around the chip). Now heat all sides of the chip using the hot air pencil so the solder around the chip reflows (you can see this if you have a good microscope). if you can't see that well lightly tap one of the ceramic capacitors next to the chip until it just starts to swim in the solder - then you should be fine and can withdraw the hot air.
Re: V10 odd issue
Dear Rainer
Thanks very much for your advice which has been successful in my case so far. My issue was an intermittent headphone failure which at one stage changed with extremely light pressure on the upper right selection pad. Checked rear leads which were fine.
I took the device to a very experienced electronics technician that generally does arcade games repairs, and with a little persistence convinced him to follow Rainer's instructions.
For the use of anyone else in this situation I include the following info. The chip mentioned in Rainer's post is on the top left section of the main board if you place the components on a table with the connections for the flex cables closest to you. It is surrounded externally by a number of small components. It is perfectly square (not rectangular) and in my case is 7mm width, with 12 pins on each of the 4 sides. Printed on the top of the chip is MAX9853.
The technician chose to remove one of the boards that is perpendicular to the main board so as to get access, using a suction desoldering unit. There were about 20 pins that connected the perpendicular board to the main board - it's fairly obvious when you look.
He then used flux and reflowed each side of the chip separately using a fine soldering iron observing under a magnifying loupe. This allowed the chip to remain fixed to the pcb at all times, and the heat did not affect the surrounding resistors etc. He then reattached the board that had been removed. He was quite impressed with the general quality of the workmanship and components of the device, in a way that only an expert would be. He indicated that it was a tricky job. I am glad I did not undertake it with my rudimentary skills. Radio is back in a working. Ill only be sure that the fix worked after some time as the fault was intermittent, although becoming more regular.
Thanks again for your advice. There was zero possibility that I would have come to this without the information this forum. I have some photos but haven't been able how to attach.
Thanks very much for your advice which has been successful in my case so far. My issue was an intermittent headphone failure which at one stage changed with extremely light pressure on the upper right selection pad. Checked rear leads which were fine.
I took the device to a very experienced electronics technician that generally does arcade games repairs, and with a little persistence convinced him to follow Rainer's instructions.
For the use of anyone else in this situation I include the following info. The chip mentioned in Rainer's post is on the top left section of the main board if you place the components on a table with the connections for the flex cables closest to you. It is surrounded externally by a number of small components. It is perfectly square (not rectangular) and in my case is 7mm width, with 12 pins on each of the 4 sides. Printed on the top of the chip is MAX9853.
The technician chose to remove one of the boards that is perpendicular to the main board so as to get access, using a suction desoldering unit. There were about 20 pins that connected the perpendicular board to the main board - it's fairly obvious when you look.
He then used flux and reflowed each side of the chip separately using a fine soldering iron observing under a magnifying loupe. This allowed the chip to remain fixed to the pcb at all times, and the heat did not affect the surrounding resistors etc. He then reattached the board that had been removed. He was quite impressed with the general quality of the workmanship and components of the device, in a way that only an expert would be. He indicated that it was a tricky job. I am glad I did not undertake it with my rudimentary skills. Radio is back in a working. Ill only be sure that the fix worked after some time as the fault was intermittent, although becoming more regular.
Thanks again for your advice. There was zero possibility that I would have come to this without the information this forum. I have some photos but haven't been able how to attach.
Re: V10 odd issue
Hi All,
My V10, during one of my last flight, it started having this same issue of losing radio audio and calls when I pressed near the flip flop button.
I turned the the V10 off and then back on and the V10 would come to life again, if I change the frequency via the EFIS we would not have the problem of the audio disappearing.
I have just read Loopy's last post and now thinking from your description, I am thinking I have Identify the wrong Chip(ATH120) in the pic just below.
I now think Chip (MAx9853 Audio Chip) in the pic below may be chip I need to reflow, But both chips look ok under the microscope. But I guess you don't know until you can get a good look at the back number of lugs after we remove the 90 Deg. PCB off.
Cheers
JimJab
My V10, during one of my last flight, it started having this same issue of losing radio audio and calls when I pressed near the flip flop button.
I turned the the V10 off and then back on and the V10 would come to life again, if I change the frequency via the EFIS we would not have the problem of the audio disappearing.
I have just read Loopy's last post and now thinking from your description, I am thinking I have Identify the wrong Chip(ATH120) in the pic just below.
- V10ChipToReflowV1.jpg (163.87 KiB) Viewed 1691 times
I now think Chip (MAx9853 Audio Chip) in the pic below may be chip I need to reflow, But both chips look ok under the microscope. But I guess you don't know until you can get a good look at the back number of lugs after we remove the 90 Deg. PCB off.
- Identifying 2nd V10 Chip to reflowV1.jpg (89.69 KiB) Viewed 1544 times
Cheers
JimJab
Older MGL units
Re: V10 odd issue
Hi everyone,
I finally found time to get my V10 radio back together.
Firstly, as talked about by Loopy in his post, so Loopy and Rainer, thank you for your experiences.
I took off the PCB Board that has the larger capacitor and stops you from getting a good look at all the pins around the Chip "mx9856".
What I found under my electronics microscope is that all the mx9856's pins looked to be well soldered.
But what I did notice under the scope before I removed the PCB board, the multi pin connector that solders it to the main board, it looked like some of those pins could have joint issues.
So once I could get a good look at the mx9856 chip under my electronics microscope, I could not see any type of soldering issue of it's pins and all the pads/pins looked really well soldered and could not see any type of pin movement when testing each leg.
So I though maybe my issue was with the board to board soldering of the PCB Board multi pin connector.
So I re-soldered this board's pins back to the main board and tested the V10, could not make it have any audio issue, by pushing or gently flexing the PCB boards around that area of issue in the V10.
So back into the plane and doing a number of frequency cycles, flip-flop, entering new frequency and then a flight test.
The V10 is operating perfectly, so in my case it seems the PCB Board connecting pins to the main board my have been where my dry solder joint issue was.
But time will tell.
Cheers
JimJab.
I finally found time to get my V10 radio back together.
Firstly, as talked about by Loopy in his post, so Loopy and Rainer, thank you for your experiences.
I took off the PCB Board that has the larger capacitor and stops you from getting a good look at all the pins around the Chip "mx9856".
What I found under my electronics microscope is that all the mx9856's pins looked to be well soldered.
But what I did notice under the scope before I removed the PCB board, the multi pin connector that solders it to the main board, it looked like some of those pins could have joint issues.
So once I could get a good look at the mx9856 chip under my electronics microscope, I could not see any type of soldering issue of it's pins and all the pads/pins looked really well soldered and could not see any type of pin movement when testing each leg.
So I though maybe my issue was with the board to board soldering of the PCB Board multi pin connector.
So I re-soldered this board's pins back to the main board and tested the V10, could not make it have any audio issue, by pushing or gently flexing the PCB boards around that area of issue in the V10.
So back into the plane and doing a number of frequency cycles, flip-flop, entering new frequency and then a flight test.
The V10 is operating perfectly, so in my case it seems the PCB Board connecting pins to the main board my have been where my dry solder joint issue was.
But time will tell.
Cheers
JimJab.
Older MGL units